2008/04/27
Active Carbon helped in balancing the system
2008/04/09
2008/04/04
Peppermint shrimp, great Aiptasia eater
I did some water testing and all except KH (6.3KH) was good. Since my Ca levels are Hi, at 450ppm, it is impossible to raise the KH, so I am stuck for a while, until I lower my Calcium levels.
In any way, I got this lovely looking shrimp to see for my self how effective it is in eating Aiptasias. 24 hours after introducing it to the set-up, the Aiptasias were gone !!! Is it possible, that this shrimp alone eradicated all 4 Aiptasias alone? I bet it did, since they were gone.
I have read many stories on the net about the Peppermint shrimp. Many say it is good and many that it is bad at eating Aiptasias. Is it possible that people are talking about two different species of similar shrimps?? I am not sure, but I sure can state that this shrimp of mine is very effective in removing the Aiptasia Anemone. My Aiptasias were no longer than 4cm, so still very small. I am not sure would this shrimp be able to eat a big Aiptasia though.
2008/02/22
Acalycigorgia Blue Sea Fan
This coral is not photosynthetic and therefore should not be exposed to strong lights. It is a filter feeding coral which should be fed 4-5 times a week with Phytoplankton, frozen Cyclops, Marine Snow, Zoo-plankton. The best is to mix all these types of food together and feed the Blue Sea Fan coral. This coral requires medium to strong water current. Also, I was observing the Sea Fan while feeding. One can actually see how its tiny polyps capture food particles and move them into the mouth that is in a middle of each polyp. That is the best proof that this coral is getting the right type of food. This coral should be supplied with Iodine, Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium and other trace elements.
2008/02/15
Box or Sundial snails - Polyp eaters
These snails can be found on different types of polyps like Zoanthus, Palythoa and Protopalythoa. They feed on polyps, by sucking out polyp's fluids. If left in the tank they can ruin polyp colonies. I advise to take them out as soon you spot them. It is easy to remove Sundial snails manually. Inspect newly purchased coral colonies before introducing them to the tank.
2008/02/07
2008/01/26
Asteriniid star
2008/01/08
Bubble algae (Valonia) and Coral Wars
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2007/12/28
Time for testing the water
NO3 is 10ppm, PO4 is 0.03ppm, KH is 6.8, Calcium is 440ppm, SG 1.023, Temp 24'C.
So far no algae problems. All corals are looking great. I can see some corals burning each other but nothing major, except the Rhodactis mushroom burning very bad the Tubastrea. I have to remove it, or move it away a bit.
I have two small Aiptasias from the beginning and for some reason they are not thriving in this tank of mine. Folk usually has problems with them and report that once you have it, Aiptasia will spread rapidly all over the tank. But not in my tank. I am still trying to find the reason why. BTW I have never tried to kill it (boiled water, kalkwater, etc).
I will see will low KH make Aiptasia feel better :-) Like with everything else, even Aiptasias have their favorite conditions. Will test and see.
So far no algae problems. All corals are looking great. I can see some corals burning each other but nothing major, except the Rhodactis mushroom burning very bad the Tubastrea. I have to remove it, or move it away a bit.
I have two small Aiptasias from the beginning and for some reason they are not thriving in this tank of mine. Folk usually has problems with them and report that once you have it, Aiptasia will spread rapidly all over the tank. But not in my tank. I am still trying to find the reason why. BTW I have never tried to kill it (boiled water, kalkwater, etc).
I will see will low KH make Aiptasia feel better :-) Like with everything else, even Aiptasias have their favorite conditions. Will test and see.
2007/12/21
Discosoma sp. died :-(
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2007/11/13
Clownfish adopted Rhodactis Mushroom
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Tests; NO3=5 ppm, PO4=0.03 ppm, Calcium at 460, KH 7, SG 1.022, Temp 24'C.
Calcium is a bit over the line. Will stop dosing it for a week and see what happens.
SG is a bit too low, will do next water change with higher salinity.
2007/11/08
Orange Sponge and Purple Mushroom added
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Next image is showing the final reef-scape.
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2007/10/29
Tubastrea sp. coral introduced
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The next photo represents the actual scape. I am pretty sure it is going to stay like this. I will add at least two-three more corals to fill in all the "holes".
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2007/10/25
Changing the Reef scape
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I introduced one Discosoma colony with nice green hue.
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2007/10/19
Rhodactis sp. and Euphyllia sp.
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Turbinaria (photo below) was again feeding on Formula One pellets today :-) well...
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NO3 2.5ppm , PO4 less than 0.03ppm almost 0ppm , Calcium 440ppm , Temp.26'C
And for the reason the PO4 levels are kind of low, I have removed the Rowa PO4 remover from the filter for now. Symbiotic Zooxanthellae algae which are living in the coral tissue need nutrients like NO3, PO4, CO2 to thrive.
Everything seem to be in order.
2007/10/16
Living Rock is indeed living ;-)
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The next photo shows a very hungry looking Trachyphyllia with inflated polyps ready for feeding.
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2007/10/11
Favia sp. and Amblyeleotris guttata
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The Goniopora is thriving extremely well in these Nano conditions;
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2007/09/21
Myth or fact - Caulerpa taxifolia (UPDATED 11th Oct.)
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Many web sites refer to this plant being a "killer algae". Also many forums claim that this algae can kill corals. I can't see any of it happening inside my aquarium (yet).
Many as well claim that this algae is so toxic that no predatory fish will eat it. I was observing an Emperor Angel fish eating it. Some Tangs will eat this algae also.
One thing is clear though. This algae is very invasive, and can smother other organisms if left unchecked (pruning is necessary). I am not sure this algae can release toxins (Caulerpenyne) into the water causing water quality issues, resulting stressed corals. Cynarina was the only coral affected by this algae. C. taxifolia was growing way too close to the Cynarina, meaning, they were all the time in physical contact. I believe this algae is able to sting corals, and by doing that, injecting certain amounts of caulerpenyne toxin into the coral. I removed major amount of Caulerpa, leaving behind just 4 leaves. I didn't perform water change. If it is true that this algae releases toxins into the water, corals should start reacting to it. A few weeks passed, nothing happened. All corals look great, even the Cynarina started coming back to life.
I have another theory also;
Most corals house symbiotic Zooxanthellae algae inside their tissues. This sort of algae (like any other algae) feed on: light, nutrients and CO2. I would say, since Caulerpa is absorbing nutrients much faster than Zooxanthellae, this symbiotic algae will start dying off. When this happens, corals will start releasing brown looking strings (Zooxanthellae) through their mouth. And by saying this, corals should have small amounts of PO4 and NO3 to be able to feed Zooxanthellae. This is my theorie, I am not sure is this scientifically proved.
One should know that Caulerpa needs nutrients like NO3 to be able to thrive. It is enough keeping NO3 levels between 5-10 ppm for it to grow. When NO3 is totally absorbed C. taxifolia will rapidly die off, and like any other plant/algae form, will release organics back into the water column. In this case older "leaves" become pale very fast, if this happens, take all algae out as fast as possible. To prevent this from happening, regular pruning is necessary. Growing a small amount of C. taxifolia is not an issue, but when the bio-mass increases, the algae will need up to 20x more NO3. One could dose extra KNO3, but this is not advised if a Coral Reef is in question.
I will continue observing it, and post updates.
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