58 L Nano Reef Journal

Active Carbon helped in balancing the system

2008-04-27T11:51:00.000-07:00

Two weeks ago, my Bubble Coral started showing stress. A week ago it started deflating. I could see the skeleton coming out of the coral mouth. I thought it will die for sure, It did look terrible. I used Active Carbon by Rowa, and already after 4 days the coral looked regenerated (as you can see in this photo above). It is very good running Active Carbon 3-4 times a year, to prevent organic build-up.
This recently introduced Clavularia coral started showing off lots of green color. Soon enough it will become totally green. Can't wait ;-)

Just a quick video update

2008-04-09T11:55:00.000-07:00

Peppermint shrimp, great Aiptasia eater

2008-04-04T01:34:00.000-07:00

I added one Peppermint shrimp to this set-up, just to test it's capability in eradicating Aiptasia Anemones. I had two new (and 2 old) Aiptasias growing on the rock. I wasn't sure why this sort of anemone started growing in my tank, since the 2 old Aiptasias weren't thriving at all. Something did change in this Nano-reef lately and I wasn't sure what.
I did some water testing and all except KH (6.3KH) was good. Since my Ca levels are Hi, at 450ppm, it is impossible to raise the KH, so I am stuck for a while, until I lower my Calcium levels.
In any way, I got this lovely looking shrimp to see for my self how effective it is in eating Aiptasias. 24 hours after introducing it to the set-up, the Aiptasias were gone !!! Is it possible, that this shrimp alone eradicated all 4 Aiptasias alone? I bet it did, since they were gone.
I have read many stories on the net about the Peppermint shrimp. Many say it is good and many that it is bad at eating Aiptasias. Is it possible that people are talking about two different species of similar shrimps?? I am not sure, but I sure can state that this shrimp of mine is very effective in removing the Aiptasia Anemone. My Aiptasias were no longer than 4cm, so still very small. I am not sure would this shrimp be able to eat a big Aiptasia though.

Acalycigorgia Blue Sea Fan

2008-02-22T04:54:00.001-08:00

I have added one more coral to this Nano-Reef; Acalycigorgia sp. Blue Sea Fan
This coral is not photosynthetic and therefore should not be exposed to strong lights. It is a filter feeding coral which should be fed 4-5 times a week with Phytoplankton, frozen Cyclops, Marine Snow, Zoo-plankton. The best is to mix all these types of food together and feed the Blue Sea Fan coral. This coral requires medium to strong water current. Also, I was observing the Sea Fan while feeding. One can actually see how its tiny polyps capture food particles and move them into the mouth that is in a middle of each polyp. That is the best proof that this coral is getting the right type of food. This coral should be supplied with Iodine, Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium and other trace elements.
I like the blue adition to the left. I will introduce one more Clavularia viridis Green to the bottom left to create a "grassy" look.

Box or Sundial snails - Polyp eaters

2008-02-15T01:57:00.000-08:00

These snails can be found on different types of polyps like Zoanthus, Palythoa and Protopalythoa. They feed on polyps, by sucking out polyp's fluids. If left in the tank they can ruin polyp colonies. I advise to take them out as soon you spot them. It is easy to remove Sundial snails manually. Inspect newly purchased coral colonies before introducing them to the tank.

Video update

2008-02-07T07:52:00.000-08:00

Everything is in order. The only problem was my Trochus snail had died. This aquarium never had any algae and I speculate the snail couldn't find enough food.

Asteriniid star

2008-01-26T02:17:00.001-08:00

Asteriniid stars are harmless and very common in reef aquariums. They usually come with living rocks.

Bubble algae (Valonia) and Coral Wars

2008-01-08T13:22:00.000-08:00

I have discovered a few Valonia Bubble algae growing in my Nano-Reef. This one was the biggest one. I have removed it manually (fingers) which was very easy really. This algae has a very strange "skin", like a rubber balloon. One should take care not to press it to hard while removing it, otherwise it could pop ;-) and release all the spores around the tank.

The next photo represents the Coral War! The Green Bubble coral (Plerogyra sinousa) is burning the much weaker Turbinaria coral (on the left-down). Corals fight for space in aquariums as well as in nature. The best thing to do is to move the weaker coral away a bit.
My Zoanthid colony is coloring very nicely (shot from above)
These green Trachyphyllia corals are showing off a very nice fluorescent color (photo from above).
Photos by Dusko Bojic.

Time for testing the water

2007-12-28T06:04:00.000-08:00

NO3 is 10ppm, PO4 is 0.03ppm, KH is 6.8, Calcium is 440ppm, SG 1.023, Temp 24'C.

So far no algae problems. All corals are looking great. I can see some corals burning each other but nothing major, except the Rhodactis mushroom burning very bad the Tubastrea. I have to remove it, or move it away a bit.

I have two small Aiptasias from the beginning and for some reason they are not thriving in this tank of mine. Folk usually has problems with them and report that once you have it, Aiptasia will spread rapidly all over the tank. But not in my tank. I am still trying to find the reason why. BTW I have never tried to kill it (boiled water, kalkwater, etc).
I will see will low KH make Aiptasia feel better :-) Like with everything else, even Aiptasias have their favorite conditions. Will test and see.

The maturing nano-reef

2007-12-21T02:43:00.000-08:00

This reef is maturing nicely. No algae issues. I didn't have any problems so far.

Discosoma sp. died :-(

2007-12-21T02:35:00.001-08:00

I didn't have time to update this, so I'll do it now. This Discosoma mushroom colony died suddenly. I wasn't sure what it was, but after researching abit I have figured out the culprit. The Euphyllia coral is know to release toxic substances in accordance to fight other corals. No other corals have suffered, but this one. And Discosoma was the hardiest coral I grow!! One could prevent this from happening by using Active Carbon which can absorb the lethal substance but I didn't know this back then.

Clownfish adopted Rhodactis Mushroom

2007-11-13T11:19:00.000-08:00

A few days ago, one of my Clown fish adopted the Rhodactis Mushroom. The second Clown joined in today. The coral doesn't seem to be stressed.

Tests; NO3=5 ppm, PO4=0.03 ppm, Calcium at 460, KH 7, SG 1.022, Temp 24'C.
Calcium is a bit over the line. Will stop dosing it for a week and see what happens.
SG is a bit too low, will do next water change with higher salinity.

Orange Sponge and Purple Mushroom added

2007-11-08T08:15:00.000-08:00

Photo 1 - taken from above (nice colors)
Next image is showing the final reef-scape.
I have introduced one colony of Purple Discosoma Mushrooms.
The Sun Polyp is doing well so far, but not perfect. It needs constant feeding and the mechanical filtration is trapping most of the food particles. I am seriously considering to remove all the mechanical filtration, like sponges etc. Filter sponge will trap all food particles, limiting food resources for the filter feeders (Orange Sponge, Sun Polyp, other corals and microscopic life form). The best thing is removing the food trap together with all sponges and filter floss, so food can freely float through the pumps and back into the aquarium. Food trapped in mechanical filters will only rot and pollute the water. One should ideally rinse all mechanical filters once a day. But instead I will take them out, next week before the water change.
This Orange Sponge doesn't need much light and ideally should be placed in low light areas. It should be fed 3-4 times a week with Phytoplankton.
"American" Zoanthids are doing fine, developing fine coloration (Green, Red, Blue and Yellow)
I am sure I have some sort of Pistol Shrimp in between the rocks. One day during the feeding time I have heard 2 clicking sounds and a small sand cloud came out side one crevice under the living rock. The Goby is almost all the time hiding in that exact spot under the rocks and comes out only at feeding time. Time will tell am I right. All snails and Crabs are still alive. I believe that Pistol Shrimp might be still small.
Photos by Dusko Bojic.

Tubastrea sp. coral introduced

2007-10-29T15:00:00.000-07:00

The Orange Sun Polyp is a very attractive animal that is non-photosynthetic (doesn't require light) and for that reason need daily feeding for best results. The one in the photo is still stressed, but after a few days should be in top form. I am feeding it once a day with small amounts of Cyclop-eeze.
The next photo represents the actual scape. I am pretty sure it is going to stay like this. I will add at least two-three more corals to fill in all the "holes".

Changing the Reef scape

2007-10-25T11:56:00.000-07:00

I decided changing the scape. The first one was making the aquarium look way too small and kind of arranged (fake). This time I am trying to make it look as natural as possible. Reef looking. I have returned the Goniopora and Cynarina corals.

I introduced one Discosoma colony with nice green hue.
In the next photo one can see how Rhodactis feeds. It forms into a "cup" first, and after traps the pray into a ball, closing completely. It will feed on anything that falls into it; Artemia, dry fish food like Formula One pellets.
All inhabitants are doing well. The Trachyphyllia is also feeding on Formula One pellets.
Photos by Dusko Bojic.

Rhodactis sp. and Euphyllia sp.

2007-10-19T09:48:00.000-07:00

I am changing the reefscape a bit. I placed one stone with Rhodactis mushroom on the left-front and the Favia that ws there is moved to the right-front instead of the Cynarina. I will return the Cynarina. I have not enough space for it. I was thinking to return the Goniopora as well, because it is placing a shadow over the Turbinaria and Trachyphyllia.
I also introduced a few fragments of Euphyllia sp. and placed them far back.
Turbinaria (photo below) was again feeding on Formula One pellets today :-) well...
I have tested the tank today;
NO3 2.5ppm , PO4 less than 0.03ppm almost 0ppm , Calcium 440ppm , Temp.26'C
And for the reason the PO4 levels are kind of low, I have removed the Rowa PO4 remover from the filter for now. Symbiotic Zooxanthellae algae which are living in the coral tissue need nutrients like NO3, PO4, CO2 to thrive.
Everything seem to be in order.

Living Rock is indeed living ;-)

2007-10-16T13:56:00.000-07:00

The photo above shows a critter called Chitons and is harmless. It came with the living rock. I have noticed this "shell" on one of the rocks and for almost two month I thought it was a fossilized animal. It didn't move until 2 days ago. It was probably hibernating (my assumption).

The next photo shows a very hungry looking Trachyphyllia with inflated polyps ready for feeding. On this image one can witness my Turbinaria eating an Ocean Nutrition Formula One pellet (shock) I couldn't believe it. This also happened yesterday. I believe that this coral feeds at day time. In the night time it hides the polyps making feeding impossible. I will observe it closely.
Spotted prawn goby is doing fine. Usually staying on one favorite spot and waiting for pray that is growing in the tank like Mysis, Cyclops, Amphipods, etc. I also feed it with pellets and frozen Artemia which it takes readily.

Favia sp. and Amblyeleotris guttata

2007-10-11T02:19:00.000-07:00

I have performed 10% water change today and have rinsed all filter media. The SG is at 1.025, temperature is at 26'C, PO4 is 0.03ppm, NO3 at 2,5ppm. I introduced some Rowa Po4 and Silicate remover to the filter media. I will dose 1 ml of Calcium chloride 3 times a week, 2ml Salifert All In One every week (Tuesdays), 1ml Iodine every second week (the 1st and the 3rd Thursday in a month). I also replaced the Nano Koralia 900 l/h pump with a Ferplast 250 l/h. Now I have less circulation than before, and corals seem be thriving much better. The circulation now is: Maxi Jet 680 l/h + Ferplast 250 l/h.

The Goniopora is thriving extremely well in these Nano conditions;
I introduced another stone coral - Favia sp.
I also added one Spotted prawn goby (Amblyeleotris guttata). It grows to 7cm.

Myth or fact - Caulerpa taxifolia (UPDATED 11th Oct.)

2007-09-21T01:38:00.001-07:00

Caulerpa taxifolia, the creeping death, or not???
Many web sites refer to this plant being a "killer algae". Also many forums claim that this algae can kill corals. I can't see any of it happening inside my aquarium (yet).
Many as well claim that this algae is so toxic that no predatory fish will eat it. I was observing an Emperor Angel fish eating it. Some Tangs will eat this algae also.

One thing is clear though. This algae is very invasive, and can smother other organisms if left unchecked (pruning is necessary). I am not sure this algae can release toxins (Caulerpenyne) into the water causing water quality issues, resulting stressed corals. Cynarina was the only coral affected by this algae. C. taxifolia was growing way too close to the Cynarina, meaning, they were all the time in physical contact. I believe this algae is able to sting corals, and by doing that, injecting certain amounts of caulerpenyne toxin into the coral. I removed major amount of Caulerpa, leaving behind just 4 leaves. I didn't perform water change. If it is true that this algae releases toxins into the water, corals should start reacting to it. A few weeks passed, nothing happened. All corals look great, even the Cynarina started coming back to life.
I have another theory also;
Most corals house symbiotic Zooxanthellae algae inside their tissues. This sort of algae (like any other algae) feed on: light, nutrients and CO2. I would say, since Caulerpa is absorbing nutrients much faster than Zooxanthellae, this symbiotic algae will start dying off. When this happens, corals will start releasing brown looking strings (Zooxanthellae) through their mouth. And by saying this, corals should have small amounts of PO4 and NO3 to be able to feed Zooxanthellae. This is my theorie, I am not sure is this scientifically proved.

One should know that Caulerpa needs nutrients like NO3 to be able to thrive. It is enough keeping NO3 levels between 5-10 ppm for it to grow. When NO3 is totally absorbed C. taxifolia will rapidly die off, and like any other plant/algae form, will release organics back into the water column. In this case older "leaves" become pale very fast, if this happens, take all algae out as fast as possible. To prevent this from happening, regular pruning is necessary. Growing a small amount of C. taxifolia is not an issue, but when the bio-mass increases, the algae will need up to 20x more NO3. One could dose extra KNO3, but this is not advised if a Coral Reef is in question.
I will continue observing it, and post updates.

Photos by Dusko Bojic.

The balanced Nano Reef

2007-09-14T05:23:00.000-07:00

The Nano Reef looks really good now. The Cynarina coral was stressed for a few days, as you can see in the next photo (deflated). At first I wasn't sure what was causing this. But after some research I have figured out that I had way too much water circulation (3 pumps).
I have switched off one pump, and after just one day the Cynarina (as well as other corals) looked much better. Strong circulation is very good, but not all corals need it.
The whole aquarium shot with 2 Clownfish

Photos by Dusko Bojic.

Trochus sp. - the best hair algae eating snail

2007-09-12T14:48:00.000-07:00

I have rearranged the aquascape a bit. I moved the Cynarina to the right and placed the new Green Bubble Coral far left. The Caulerpa taxifolia macro-algae is growing very fast. I will prune it next week. This algae is keeping my NO3 (Nitrate) levels at 5 ppm.

I also introduced one Trochus sp. snail for controlling the Hair algae.
It is truly amazing how this Bubble Coral changes form. During the day time it looks like this;
...and during the night time, it deflates, creating lots of polyps :-)
I will run the Koralia Nano pump only during the day for 12 hours. It will switch off as soon lights go off (set on timer). There is no need for so much circulation during the night time.
The specific gravity is 1.o24. Temperature is 25'C. NO2 is 0ppm and NO3 5ppm. So far everything seem to be in order.

Photos by Dusko Bojic.

The Clownfish has arrived

2007-09-11T13:12:00.000-07:00

I introduced 2 Amphiprion ocellaris (Clownfish) today. After about 45 min. of acclimating them they were introduced to the aquarium. They immediately started feeding on Cyclops, I have fed to the Corals, which was a good sign. Meaning, they are far from being under stress. These Clowns are bred in Sweden.
I moved the Goniopora more to the front centre. The aquascape works much better now.
I also added one coral today. The Green Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa). Since this coral is very aggressive I have placed it away from the other corals.
Trachyphyllia is starting to look more meaty. Very beautiful coral!
I started dosing Salifert "All In One", for healthy coral growth. I dose 2,5 ml every week. "All In One" contains almost everything required for growth by corals and the beautiful encrusting pink and red coralline algae. All in One will increase the alkalinity (carbonate hardness), calcium, strontium, trace elements (except iodine) and amino acids concentrations.

Photos by Dusko Bojic.

Corals waking up

2007-09-09T00:46:00.001-07:00

This is how my corals look today;

I have fed the corals last night after the lights switched off with powdered phytoplankton. As soon lights go off Cynarina turns into polyps, used for feeding;

Photos by Dusko Bojic.

First Corals in

2007-09-07T14:04:00.000-07:00

My plan is to keep running with monthly 20% water change for as long as possible. I will test once a week for NO2 and NO3, write it down in my Blog (and here). After a few month I will come with the conclusion and of course will share it with you. I would like to test the skimmer and the Caulerpa "capacity" in removing nutrients. That is my goal at the moment. But lets cut this chat now and go visually back to my Nano Reef I have introduced 6 Corals today and here they are my ladies and gents; Most of them are still stressed, hiding the polyps, so next time I post the photos they should have the actual look.

45 min acclimatization;

Gonioporas polyps can grow to about 40cm, but usually much less in the aquarium (I hope )

One of the Blue-legged Hermits;
At the moment it looks like this, but the scape will change around;
The wide shot;

This tank is ready...

2007-09-06T12:01:00.000-07:00

I tested today; Ammonia O ppm, NO2 is O ppm and NO3 at 5 ppm.
I also performed 20% water change. All snails and crabs are doing fine. I have noticed a lot of Cyclops on the glass. My corals are going to enjoy them :-)
I am getting a few more snails tomorrow and possibly one Peppermint Shrimp too (I have one Aiptasia anemone growing and these shrimps are known for eating this kind of pest, lets test it)

Protein Skimmer performing just fine!

2007-09-01T01:15:00.000-07:00

When sea waves hit into the land, they mix with air, mixing air bubbles withe the water containing dissolved organic compounds, creating a protein rich foam, which stays on the land = organic waste removed from the water column. The same performance is created, inside a salt water aquarium, with the help of a protein skimmer.

Caulerpa taxifolia macro-algae and more...

2007-08-31T00:57:00.000-07:00

I introduced the Caulerpa taxifolia macro-algae to the set-up a few days ago. Macro algae are well know for their ability to uptake NO3 and PO4 and they look great in my opinion.2nd photo; This algae grows very fast indeed. After just two days, this Caulerpa sp. is sending out long runners with new "leaves" (since macro algae are unicellular, they actually have no leaves). One thing is to be done regularly with macro algae though...pruning.

I am very satisfied with my rock-work. The scape provides many crevices and platforms for Coral placing. The live rock was already cured for 4 weeks before being added to my nano tank, nice and clean. All rocks contain a fair amount of "purple" (Mesophyllum) and red (Peyssonnelia) calcareous Coraline algae.
The rock-work,
And since my Ammonia and NO2 is constantly at 0ppm and the NO3 is rising slowly (now at 20ppm), I can say only one thing...nitrifying bacteria is already present inside this aquarium. By adding Pro Cult, living sand, precured (clean) live rock and Caulerpa algae, this portable Eco-system didn't have much trouble taking off. This tank didn't go through the Cycling process, because I used the "jump starting" method. I am aware that many reefers wouldn't agree with me saying this, but time will tell, and I am going to up-date this blog accordingly.
NOTE; I am not advising inexperienced reefers to do as mentioned above. One should wait for approx 3-4 weeks (test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate first) for the nitrogen cycle to happen, before adding any live stock. Only someone with years of experience can successfully start an aquarium in short time by using "Jump Starting" cycling method. New reefers, it is important not to rush things in the beginning. Take it slowly, and you will be reworded with a long lasting, stunning reef tank. Note; Ocean is billion of years OLD. It takes time.

And for the reason Caulerpa is a nutrient hungry algae, I added 2 Blue legged Hermit Crabs, 2 "Grey" legged Hermit Crabs, 2 Astrea snails and 5 Mitra sp. snails, that are grazing all over the tank. I also added a few extra shells, and the crabs are using them already. As soon my shop get the Red legged Hermits in, I will swap them with my existing ones.
Mitra sp. snail;
Cyclops female with eggs...extra food for my reef life;
Koralia Nano 900 l/h working well;
Hydor Bio Flow, rotating and directing the water flow in all directions. Great device! It is connected to the Maxi Jet 680 l/h.

The tank is running

2007-08-23T09:42:00.000-07:00

For the record;
Living rock, sand (living and dead) + Pro Cult bacteria culture and 50 liters of water are added today. Pumps are working, as well as the skimmer. Lights will be on for 12 hours a day. I will perform no water change during this cycling period.
Photo update coming soon...

The Big start

2007-08-22T13:45:00.001-07:00

This 58 L aquarium (Clownfisk Hotell by Imazo) is equipped with a 1000 l/h skimmer, 2 x 18 Watt Blue-white 10000K compact fluorescent lights (+reflectors), heater, Moonlight, UV-light 8 Watt and 2 fans for cooling the lights.
I added 2 extra pumps for a better circulation;
1 Koralia Nano 900 l/h power head,
1 Maxi-Jet PH 680 l/h power head with an extra Hydor Bio Flow rotating out-let,

I am getting approx 6 kg of (precured) liverock at Thursday. I will arrange the rocks first and then top up with 1-2mm coral sand, about 1 cm deep. I will also sprinkle some living sand over the new one (transporting liverock and live sand will take no more than 15 minutes).
I am taking the aged water from my 700 liters shop coral aquarium, that is controlled by my manager (very knowledgeable guy).
After I fill it in I will set the temp to 25´Celsius, and get the pumps to "rock". The lights are on the timer, 12 hours a day.
I will also add the living bacteria culture (doesn't cost much, staff price ) from Amtra Pro Cult , similar to Biospira. This will run for two weeks like this. After 2 weeks are over I will perform my first 20% water change.

I was thinking to introduce Feather Caulerpa algae first, on one side of the tank. I know it propagates fast but would prune it often. I am aware how important role macro algae play in a reef system. Starting with 6 Astrea Snails first (after 2 weeks that is).
Will wait one week, perform 5% water change, and add 5-6 Red legged Hermit Crabs. Again after a week, 5% water change and adding 2-3 Peppermint Shrimps. I believe some Glass Anemones will start growing, so let the shrimps take care of it. No feeding of course.

Week after 5% water change and two Ocellaris will be added. I will start feeding with frozen Artemia. Will let it run like this for a week or two, before I start adding corals.

Corals I will try growing are;
Top center - Euphyllia glabrescens - very aggressive coral if left to grow too close to the others, will keep it "short".
Mid-level - Zooanthus sp. , Turbinaria, Caulastrea, Lobophyllia (will be placed on the opposite side of the power head protected by the living-rock, away from direct current).
Bottom part - Green Star Polyps (Clavularia viridis) on right corner exposed to direct light, Caulerpa algae on the opposite side, in the centre - Trachyphyllia, Fungia, Blastomussa wellsi and Cynarina. If I create a cave inside the living rock I will place one Tubastarea in it since it doesn't require lots of light (will target feed it very often)

I will do monthly 20% water change.